Florida Friendly Landscaping Principle #3: fertilize appropriately – Janetta Fox

Florida Friendly Landscaping Principle #3: fertilize appropriately

November 5, 2020
By Janetta Fox - Garden Club of Cape Coral (Special to The BreezeCape Coral Breeze
Click Here for full article in the Cape Coral Breeze

I used to be of the mind set that, if a little fertilizer does the trick, more fertilizer will do an even better job of ensuring happy, healthy plants. As you might imagine, there can, indeed, be too much of a good thing, and my “more fertilizer is better” approach to plant care led to less than optimal results. What I have learned from the experience is that just because I have a big bag of fertilizer doesn’t mean I have to use it all.

Over fertilization can hurt beneficial soil microorganisms, such as micorrhizal fungi, which work hand-in-hand with a plant’s root system, helping plants absorb nutrients and water in exchange for sugars.

Excess fertilizer can also lead to sudden plant growth which, at face value, may seem appealing. After all, who doesn’t want to see plants grow and bloom sooner rather than later? Unfortunately, the excessive growth above the soil level isn’t met by similar root system development. Therefore, flowering/fruiting is actually reduced and the plant becomes stressed and weakens. A weakened plant naturally serves as an invitation to disease and pests to the detriment of plants and our wallets, as well, as we attempt to “fix” issues by purchasing pest/disease control products that we would not otherwise need.

And as if that weren’t enough, excess nitrogen and phosphorus from over fertilization of lawns and other landscape plants need to go somewhere, and that somewhere is our waterways. These nutrients can easily leech into aquifers, travel into sewer systems and work their way into canals, lakes, streams, rivers and bays, ultimately feeding algal blooms and leading to fish kills and other negative environmental consequences.

So, what can we do as homeowners? Applying the appropriate amount of fertilizer according to label directions can provide important nutrients that may be lacking in the soil, and which plants need to manufacture their own food. If you want to find out what nutrients are currently present in your landscape, you can get a soil test done for a nominal fee. For additional information on how to submit samples for testing, visit the UF/IFAS Soil Testing Laboratory.

When using fertilizer always follow label directions and apply only as needed, keeping in mind that, when planted in the right place and conditions, many established shrubs and trees don’t normally need supplemental fertilization.

Palms are the exception, with application of the proper amount of palm fertilizer 3-4 times per year essential to their health and well-being. Not only does palm fertilizer contain standard macronutrients, but also tiny amounts of various micronutrients, such as boron, iron and manganese, all of which are listed on the back of the fertilizer bag. A lack of any of these important micros can easily lead to palm decline in a relatively short period of time.

In addition to the above, there are a number of other actions you can take as a homeowner. Consider organic alternatives such as compost, which help loosen compacted soil and improve soil fertility. Use a broadcast spreader with a deflector shield if you are the one applying the fertilizer on your lawn. When using a lawn maintenance company, ensure the provider is Best Management Practices (BMP) certified. Avoid weed and feed products; herbicides should only be used for spot treatment. Clean up spilled fertilizer. And last, though certainly not least, always follow local ordinances. In Lee County, application of fertilizer containing nitrogen/phosphorus is prohibited June – September.

For further information regarding the third principle of Florida Friendly Landscaping, check out the IFAS handbook .

Happy gardening!

Janetta Fox is a Lee County Master Gardener Volunteer and member of the Garden Club of Cape Coral.

For your consideration: the red dragon flower – Janetta Fox

For your consideration: The Red Dragon Flower

October, 15 2020
By Janetta Fox - Garden Club of Cape Coral (Special to The BreezeCape Coral Breeze
Click Here for full article in the Cape Coral Breeze

"You can’t buy happiness, but you can buy succulents! And that is pretty much the same thing."
— Jessica Anna Jones

Huernia schneideriana, aka red dragon flower, is one of my favorite succulents, not only because of its texture and draping habit, but also because it is exceedingly easy to propagate. A few years ago, my husband gifted me a cutting, which had been gifted to him during a morning stroll by a neighbor and, as they say, the rest is history.

The plant is one of 64 Huernia species, named for the Dutch missionary and botanist, Justus Van Heurne, who was reputedly the first collector of Huernia succulents. As an interesting bit of trivia and either by mistake or design, the species name is spelled differently from that of the botanist, with the letters E and U transposed.

Huernia schneideriana is basally branching and has waxy-coated, fleshy, green, 6-7 angled cylindrical stems that conserve water. As with other succulents, water conservation is accomplished through microscopic, mouth-like stomata (pores) that remain closed during the day to reduce transpiration and then open at night for the intake of carbon dioxide, which is used in daytime in the photosynthesis process.
The red dragon flower’s “teeth” (tubercles) appear prickly upon first glance but are quite smooth to the touch. A shallow root system allows the root hairs to absorb water less than an inch below the surface and so a shallow, well-draining container works just fine for growing purposes. Petite inflorescences, or flower clusters, grow from the base or middle of the stems and, although the flower is not particularly showy, its 5-point corolla and velvety, rich burgundy color are lovely to behold.

Huernias enjoys filtered sun/bright shade and plenty of water during bloom season in the summer, with much less water needed in winter. Always make certain to avoid applying too much water, which can easily result in “wet feet” and, ultimately, root rot. The succulent also appreciates an occasional application of half-strength fertilizer.

Because the plant is clump-forming, occasionally removing select stems at the base will allow for better aeration. By taking this action you will also be able to see signs of stress more easily. While caring for the plant, be on the look-out for stem and root mealybugs and conditions of root rot, the most prevalent issues experienced.

Plant propagation can be accomplished by taking stems from the base of the plant or offshoots. After removal, allow the cuttings to dry and callus for a few days. With or without the benefit of a rooting powder application, you can then plant the cuttings upright in a well-draining container of potting or gritty succulent mix. Another way to propagate is to lay stem cuttings on the mix and the undersides will form roots.

Happy gardening!

Janetta Fox is a member of the Garden Club of Cape Coral and a Lee County Master Gardener Volunteer.

Sources:

Huernia schneideriana (red dragon flower). World of Succulents

How to grow and care for huernia succulents. Inspire Bohemia

Growing Bulbs in Southwest Florida – Cathy Dunn

Growing Bulbs in Southwest Florida

October, 2 2020
By Cathy Dunn - Garden Club of Cape Coral (Special to The BreezeCape Coral Breeze
Click Here for full article in the Cape Coral Breeze
What flowers come to mind when you think of bulbs? Probably blooms such as tulips and daffodils, which are such familiar harbingers of spring in colder climates. But these types of bulbs are problematic in Southwest Florida because they require an extended period of cool dormancy to trigger their blooms. It IS possible to have tulips in Florida if you purchase bulbs that have been “pre-chilled” for 2 to 4 months and plant them in the winter, but chances are that the hot Florida sun will cause your flowers to decline rapidly, and the bulbs rarely bloom again.

Rather than trying to force a non-tropical plant to flourish in the wrong environment, you should try your hand at growing bulbs that thrive in Southwest Florida. There are many varieties of bulbs that can be added to your gardens that will provide not only a colorful addition to your landscape, but blooms that can be used in indoor arrangements. And the bulb’s long, strappy foliage also provides an interesting contrast in your garden.

What exactly is a bulb? A bulb is basically a thickened underground storage organ which allows a dormant plant to survive unfavorable environmental conditions. Bulbs provide nutrient and water storage during dormancy and in stressful periods such as cold, heat or drought. In Southwest Florida, most bulbs thrive in sunny locations but some bulbs, such as caladiums, will tolerate partial shade. Gardeners can choose from a wide variety of tropical and subtropical bulbs including agapanthus, amaryllis, cannas, cranium lilies, crocosmia, hurricane lily, rain lilies and spider lily.

To ensure success, your garden site should be well-drained and improved with organic matter such as peat moss or compost. Make sure your bulb is right side up when you plant it; the bulb will have a smooth tip and a rough underside, which is the root area of the bulb. Follow the cultural instructions for the proper depth and distance between bulbs, and the fertilizer requirements for your bulb. Some bulbs, such as amaryllis, will produce seed heads after flowering; if these seed heads remain on the bulb, it will take some of the bulb’s energy and you will have less flowers the next year. It’s always a good practice to “dead head” your blooms after they fade; this will help the bulb preserve energy for the next blooming period. But don’t cut off the yellowing leaves of your bulbs; the leaves are providing food and energy for the bulb and removing the leaves before they are completely brown and withered will deplete your bulb’s storage capacity.

When should you plant bulbs? Some bulbs can be planted now in the fall, including gladiola, which will produce blooms about 3 months after planting. To extend the blooming period, try planting the bulbs at 2-week intervals to enjoy the colorful spikes of bright blooms longer in the late winter/early spring. Amaryllis bulbs are widely available at the holidays for indoor blooms; you can find these bulbs at the big box stores as well as at specialty nurseries. I have had success growing these bulbs in pots for blooms indoors at Christmas, and then I just transfer them to the garden where they will multiply rapidly and bloom in the spring (though usually not the first year after you plant them.)

You can get a head start on summer flowering bulbs by starting them in pots in the spring; caladiums, cannas and blood lilies are easily started in pots for transplanting into the garden. Use well-drained potting medium and 6 to 8-inch pots to start these bulbs, placing one bulb in each pot. The pots should be kept in a warm spot outdoors with good sunlight. As temperatures begin to rise you should move the pots to the garden for acclimation before placing them in your landscape. This technique will provide fuller plants with beautiful blooms sooner!

I order bulbs directly from growers to ensure a broad selection of the highest quality bulbs. Two of my favorites are Brent and Becky’s Bulbs in Gloucester, VA, and White Flower Farm in Litchfield, CT. These growers offer a wide selection of unique bulbs that are well suited to our sub-tropical climate, and you will have beautiful specimen plantings that are the envy of your fellow gardeners!

As residents of the Sunshine State, we are truly fortunate to have an unsurpassed resource for extensive online gardening information. The University of Florida has excellent information on growing bulbs, with recommendations on the various bulbs that thrive in our climate as well as planting tips and detailed publications on bulbs: click here for more info .

I hope that you have been encouraged to try some bulbs in your landscape; they are low maintenance additions to your gardens that will reward you with spectacular and unusual blooms for many years!

Cathy Dunn is a Florida Master Gardener Volunteer and member of the Garden Club of Cape Coral.

Halloween: What’s Lurking in Your Garden? – Deborah Haggett

What's Lurking in Your Garden?

October, 2020
By Deborah Haggett - Garden Club of Cape Coral (Special to The BreezeCape Coral Breeze
Click Here for full article in the Cape Coral Breeze
Many traditions have come and gone to mark the arrival of shorter, darker winter days.
Halloween is one which celebrates the end of summer, the end of the harvest, and the honoring of the
dead. Here in Florida, our longer summers bewitch me into easily forgetting that Fall is here, but
thankfully my neighbors reminded me with their whimsical and ghoulish Halloween displays. Their
grinning ghosts, witches, and jack-o-lanterns prompted me to explore my yard for haunting signs of
Halloween.
Lurking in the corner of my lanai is my potted Devil’s Backbone shrub aka: Pedilanthus
tithymaloide. Despite its name, this 3 ft. high succulent with its zig-zag stem and red bracts is easy to
grow. It is a relative of the poinsettia and likes full sun to part shade. Where this plant gets its devilish
due is with its poisonous white sap. Its beauty will tempt you, but make sure you wear gloves and don’t
allow children or pets to eat it.
Another beautiful succulent masquerading as a gentle plant in my yard is the Agave desmettiana.
It is considered a smooth, dwarf agave that when planted in the ground only grows to 3 or 4 feet unlike
the century agave plant which has spiny leaves that can grow to 10 feet. The agave desmettiana is a
drought tolerant, light loving plant that blooms only once in its lifetime, sometime between 8 and 10
years. Its ghoulish reputation comes from its gruesome ability to draw blood from even the most cautious
of gardeners. Beware the description of its “smooth” leaf margins. This dramatic, eye catching plant is
possessed with a sharp, stabbing, red spine at the tip of its leaf which can be exorcised to protect innocent
trick-or-treaters passing by.
A visually interesting Halloween plant that I don’t recommend for the Florida garden is the Darth
Vader plant aka: Aristolochia salvadorensis, a pipevine native to Brazil. It has been described as a
“rambunctious” climbing vine that will require vigorous pruning. Although its blooms resemble the
spooky, hooded image of Darth Vader, they only last about a week. In that time, they emit a putrid stench
similar to rotting zombie flesh that invites pollinators to fly into its “eyes.” Once captured, they are
covered with pollen and finally released to pollinate again.
Instead of the Darth Vader plant, you may want to consider a native species of Aristolochia
commonly known as dutchman’s pipe for its flower’s resemblance to a tobacco pipe. The native species:
Aristolochia tomentosa Sims. and Aristolochia macrophylla Lam. are host plants for the beautiful
Pipevine Swallowtail or Blue Swallowtail butterfly. This butterfly is recognized for its blue iridescent
hind wings. Beware confusing the native Dutchman’s Pipe plant with its exotic cousins who have a dark
side; they are toxic and a death trap to the Swallowtail larvae. These Grim Reapers are the Aristolochia
gigantea aka: Pelican Flower, the Aristolchia elegans aka: Calico Flower, a Category II exotic invasive,
and the Aristolochia ringens aka: Gaping Dutchman’s Pipe. They may disguise themselves as Florida
friendly but they are true monsters!
So, my phantom readers, in honor of All Hallows’ Eve, explore your enchanted gardens and
remember, “In every garden there is a child who believes in the seed fairy.” Robert Brault

Deborah Haggett is a member of the Garden Club of Cape Coral and a Lee County Master Gardener
Volunteer
Sources:
Devil's Backbone
Dwarf Century Plant
IFAS
Florida Native Aristolochia

Gardening for Butterflies

Gardening for butterflies

Sept 24, 2020
By Sherie Blieler - Garden Club of Cape Coral (Special to The BreezeCape Coral Breeze
Click Here for full article in the Cape Coral Breeze
Gardening for Butterflies

Fall is a great time for Butterflies in Cape Coral! Their number and variety are at their highest. As I walk by my garden on this sunny day, late in the morning, I see a number flying about. A couple of deep orange and black monarchs are twirling upward around each other and then fly back down to the milkweed plants. A yellow butterfly is quickly darting around the senna bush. The orange gulf fritillary is drinking from the flowers on the scorpion tail plant. Seeing them flutter gracefully from flower to flower always puts a smile on my face. Bees are buzzing. Dragonflies whirl by. Lots of life in this flower garden.

Which butterflies do you see most often? Monarchs are plentiful, large and easy to spot with their orange and black wings. Did you know most of our Monarchs do not migrate? They stay right here and are actively breeding all winter. They lay their eggs only on milkweed plants which hatch in about a week. The caterpillars gorge themselves on the milkweed leaves for almost 2 weeks before shedding their skin to morph into a chrysalis. In 10-14 days, they emerge as butterflies. They live for only about 2 weeks to lay their eggs and die.

Look for giant swallowtails fluttering around citrus trees, where they lay their eggs. Their lower wing has an extension on it, thus the name swallowtail. Their upper side is black with cream lines while the underside is golden yellow with black. Magnificient! We have many other kinds of swallowtails visiting from time to time.

You may see Zebra longwings fluttering slowly in the shade. They are our state butterfly and active all winter, along with our monarchs. Zebras lay their eggs on the wispy ends of the passion vine plant.

Take your garden up a notch and add plants with nectar to feed the butterflies and other pollinators. Some easy plants to grow this far south that contain plenty of nectar are: porterweed, firebush, dune sunflower, scorpion tail, buttercup (Turnera ulmifolia), tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica), and jatropha (J. integerrima). You will find many more plants to choose from at local native nurseries, such as: All Native Nursery, 300 Center Rd., near Page Field, and Hickory Hammock Native Tree Farm, 13321 Peace Rd., near Buckingham.

To really reel in the butterflies to your yard, add plants they will lay their eggs on, called host plants. Butterflies have a particular plant or family of plants on which they lay their eggs. If you have passion vines, you will attract Zebra Longwings and Gulf Fritillaries. Senna bushes attract several kinds of yellow sulphur butterflies spring through fall. Parsley, dill and fennel attract black swallowtails in late spring.

What discourages butterflies from your yard? Spraying pesticides indiscriminately every month defeats the purpose. Butterflies are, after all, insects! In my yard, I deal with specific insect problems as they come up. If mealy bugs are on my fern or aphids on my peppers, I spray only that plant. Otherwise, I suggest you let insects attract biological controls such as birds, predatory wasps and ladybugs. The more insect diversity in your yard, the more butterflies you will see!

For more information online, see the North American Butterfly Association: NABA.com. Find information specific to Florida here: https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/design/types-of-gardens/butterfly-gardens.html

Rotary Park in SW Cape has a well developed butterfly garden around the butterfly house. The house is open for Friday and Saturday tours, 10:30, masks required. Take a leisurely stroll and see how many butterflies you can see!

Sherie Blieler is a member of the Garden Club of Cape Coral.